Hallgrímskirkja

Where beauty is, then there is ugliness;

where right is, also there is wrong.

Knowledge and ignorance are interdependent;

delusion and enlightenment condition each other.

Since olden times it has been so.

How could it be otherwise now?

Wanting to get rid of one and grab the other

is merely realizing a scene of stupidity.

Even if you speak of the wonder of it all,

how do you deal with each thing changing?

(Ryokan)

Hallgrímskirkja Church {Reykjavik}

The courtesans are turned out in their best,

How delightfully they speak and laugh along the lovely green river.

They call out to the gentleman all the day long,
And tempt them with songs that
charm the hardest heart.

They mince about with flirtatious glances
so difficult to resist.

Someday, though, even these captivating women
will have nothing left, And they will be left out in the harsh cold.

Leave off your mad rush for gold and jewels, I've got something
far more precious for you:

A bright pearl that sparkles more brilliantly than the sun and moon,
And illuminates each and every eye.

Lose it and you'll wallow in a sea of pain;
Find it and you'll safely reach the other shore.

I freely preset this treasure to anyone,

But hardly anyone asks for it.

(Ryokan)

Primal Forces of Nature

Since landing in Iceland everyone has mentioned I gotta see the volcano eruption. Hearing of it's beauty piqued my interest for sure. It's been the talk of the town. But then, just the other day, the SECOND eruption occurred. I looked a bit dumbfounded. I had to clarify.

"You mean to tell me there's been another eruption?"

Yep. I was told. One that is 10x's as powerful as the first. But to make things interesting, this one is springing up out of a huge glacier. The Eyjafjallajokull (ay-yah-FYAH'-plah-yer-kuh-duhl) glacier, to be exact. Talk about a shit load of melting water. Hundreds of people have had to be evacuated.

Reykjavik is out of the line of fire, thankfully. However, should I be worried about another one going off closer to home? Things aren't dull around here. That's for sure.

So why is Iceland such a hotbed of activity?

Weeeelllll, let's cover a few interesting facts about this geo-active island.

• Iceland is situated astride the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, and on top of a hot-spot presumed to be fed by a deep mantel plume, located under Central Iceland. 

• Iceland is slowly being pulled apart. At the plate boundary, the two major plates, the Eurasia and North American Plates, move apart today with a velocity of about 19 mm/year. 

• The divergence of the ridge started in the north about 150 million years ago. As the plates move apart the Icelandic hot-spot, excessive eruptions of lava construct volcanoes and fill rift valleys. 

• The divergence continues today and is accompanied by earthquakes, reactivation of old volcanoes and creation of new volcanoes.

• Iceland is one of the most active and productive sub-aerial volcanic regions on Earth, with eruption frequency of ≥20 events per century.

• Iceland is home to more than 100 volcanoes and on average, a volcano erupts about every 5th year. Volcanoes define a wide spectrum of forms, ranging from a crack in the ground to stately stratovolcanoes like the Hekla volcano. 

 Helka 

One of Iceland's largest volcanoes when active.

• Because of Iceland's location, on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the island is in the process of formation. The old parts, the east and west carried away by the wind, sea, rain, and ice, while new parts are created by volcanic action. 

(source)

It seems to me Iceland is a geologist's paradise! I've even found it interesting as a layperson. With events such as this, it only reaffirms whose really boss, and it ain't us!!!!!!

Hotbed of Creativity {Reykjavik}

The volcano isn't the only thing erupting around here! There's a creativity boom in Reykjavik. Amazing. With a population at a mere 120, 000, it probably has one of the highest percentage of artists and creative minds in the world. Though my findings are far from scientific I'm impressed by the creative energy bubbling around these parts.

The main street in Reykjavik, Laugavegur, hosts an abundance of private label fashion boutiques,  teaming with their very own fashion designers. I don't know about you but I was highly impressed by this. Being a fashion merchandising major in college I can appreciate what all this entails. I love and appreciate what unique fashion tastes bring to the table, and I have to say in Iceland, I've gotten a taste of what it's all about. With a mixture of off beat presentation, and awkward coordination, from what I've seen it works beautifully, and somehow always pulled off as c-h-i-c, chic!. I love, love, love it.

I know, I'm sounding like I work for the tourism board of Iceland. However, being an avid admirer of all things artistic and creative I love the vibe of possibility this community supports. It's a wonderful thing.

Along with finding unique and fashionable digs, Reykjavik has an alive music scene, plenty of art galleries, and museums to check out. The way I heard it, with the extremes of weather and the darkness during the winter, I guess the energy has to go somewhere. Why not towards creating something interesting, beautiful and thought-provoking? Better than the alternative.

19.6 Kg

"Anyone whose goal is ‘something higher’ must expect someday to suffer vertigo. What is vertigo? Fear of falling? No, Vertigo is something other than fear of falling. It is the voice of the emptiness below us which tempts and lures us, it is the desire to fall, against which, terrified, we defend ourselves."

(Milan Kundera, The Unbearable Lightness of Being)

I made it. Iceland here I am. How do you like me now?!! 

Alright. I made it without too many travel woes. I mean, I love to travel. Discovering new places, experiencing adventure, in all that it entails. On the other hand, it has it's draw backs.

The baggage weight requirements seem to shift like the tides. It's frustrating. Icelandair. I was only allowed a slim 20 kg (44lbs) for my two month stay. Lovely. I say that with much contempt, lol. It's interesting, the baggage allowances seems to ever so slowly, ever so subtly, decrease with various airlines.

When I checked my bag I was elated to have made it at a minuscule, 19.6 kg. Whew! I'm getting better at this. With all my bitching, it's actually a good thing I'm becoming a better, more efficient traveler. There might be hope for me yet!

But you know, I get so tickled by the all the airline pomp and circumstance. For instance, I had almost forgotten to put my godforsaken liquids in the required, airline regulated, clear plastic bag, to then have my stuff shoved through security as the screening agent ignored the monitor while gossiping with a co-worker.

The flight to Iceland was smooth sailing besides the fact I was seated in the middle of a sea of teenage, Swedish, hockey players. There's nothing cute about it. Nothing. Absolutely nothing.

As we touched down Keflavik International Airport I could see the vastness of the landscape. It's quite barren and beautiful at the same time. Took a 40 minute bus ride to Reykjavik and was amazed by the sweeping views of the country side. Feels like being on another planet. Moon like. No trees. Volcanic rock. It wasn't until we reached the city that trees dotted the area. Which I was told were planted.

The big news about town is the volcanic eruption. They say it's a beautiful site to behold. I'd like to see it at some point. The other news is the financial collapse Iceland experienced. Everything seems to be pulled to together from what I see, but what do I know at this point. Known for being expensive, living has been more of a strain on it's residents. A perfect opportunity for tourists however, as prices are reasonable for visitors.

Good thing is, the Icelanders are still up for some yoga! I'm looking forward to discovering this enchanted island, and all that it has to offer.